Chef Hoyoung Kim spent eight years working at Jungsik in Tribeca, the tasting menu spot that helped thrust modern Korean fare into the New York spotlight. Shortly before the pandemic, he striked out on his own with Jua, an excellent wood-fired restaurant in Flatiron. For $130, diners experience seven precise courses, including intricate banchan, delicate caviar kim, jook, and hotteok dessert pancakes. It’s an expensive meal, but it’s a much more affordable alternative to the tasting menus at Michelin-starred Korean restaurants Atomix or Jungsik.