NYC’s roster of Chinese restaurants includes plenty of reliable options spanning regional cooking that includes Sichuan, Cantonese, Hunanese, and even Shandong. But for Shanghainese fare, CheLi has emerged as the most popular (and acclaimed) destination where the menu goes beyond soup dumplings. Eater critic Robert Sietsema praised the delicate drunken crab poached in rice wine, fork-tender pork belly braised with abalone, and a number of the fish courses steeped in fiery chile-laced sauces. The restaurant’s interior, which looks like a cross between a dining room inside an imperial palace and an old movie set, is dotted with paper lanterns, clay pots, and bamboo rafters — a fitting stage for any type of Chinese cooking.